How Does UV Protection Work With Picture Frames?

What Is UV Light

Light plays a big role in photography! We may want the best light while we are in the field, but we definitely want our artwork protected from light at the end.

UV light, both A and B, is not in our visible spectrum but is present in the light we see every day. It is a very strong light that can have a very big impact. It is more prolific in sunlight and fluorescent lighting, but is present everywhere.

When looking at a fine-art photo, you may notice several components: the colors pop, the shadows are striking, the detail is phenomenal, etc. The dyes, papers, inks all used to make that final piece of art are essentially chemicals. UV light is so strong that it will break down those chemicals when exposed…colors will fade and paper will become brittle and yellow over time. Having the right glass helps to ensure your investment is protected!

Of course, there many variations on UV protection: glass can be glazed with a protective coating, the glass itself can be made with protective materials within its layers…some work to absorb the UV rays, others work to reflect the UV rays. None are necessarily better than the other from a protection standpoint, but they may impact viewing of the artwork. “Museum Glass” is often described as the best for this purpose: it blocks harmful UV rays, but also doesn’t impact the color/clarity/detail of what you can see behind the glass.

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Red Eye

To Give Your Art the Best Chance For Survival

I include UV Anti-Reflective Glass Water ArtGlass (Museum Glass Quality), this is the ultimate in art visibility and protection. It provides 92% UV protection with low-iron and no-tint. This museum quality artglass is an ultra clear framing glass that will protect your art and preserve the fine details of the work's texture and colors. It’s smooth surface allows for details to emerge unaltered, with a scratch resistant and easy to clean Artglass AR coating. Please Note: all items larger than 24" x 28" use a museum quality non-glare acrylic with 92% UV protection.

All of my pieces are archival, which means that I use only certified archival papers, inks, signature pen and other framing materials. The inks and papers I use are rated for longevity and permanence by Aadenburg Imaging and Archives to last decades without fading or color change when displayed under proper conditions (no direct UV light for extended periods of time). You can be sure your investment will remain in the same condition in which you received it for many generations.

To best protect your possessions but still display your artwork, make sure that no paintings, prints and photographs are hanging in direct sunlight and follow the advice located here Artglass, Frame and Acrylic Cleaning Instructions

How Not to Hang Artwork!

Nothing makes a house a home more than hanging artwork on bare walls. It adds personal style and visual interest, and it reflects the homeowner’s personality. For most of us, it is fairly difficult to hang artwork properly. If artwork—especially the popular “gallery walls”—isn’t hung correctly, everything will look awkward and out of place, causing perfectionists everywhere to cringe every time they pass the wall. Before whacking away at your wall to hang artwork, here’s a checklist of what NOT to do. 

Not Using the Proper Hanging Equipment

Sometimes, a single nail just won’t cut it—especially with heavier pieces. While using a single hook might work for some smaller pieces, most of the time, it’s extremely difficult to get the artwork perfectly straight without using another hook. Using two hooks, one on each side, ensures that the weight of the piece is evenly dispersed on each side, keeping it from shifting over one way or the other. There are also picture-hanging kits available at most retailers that include the correct brackets, wall mounts and other hardware needed to hang your piece correctly according to weight and size. Just any nail won’t necessarily work—and if it does, it won’t last for a long time before it collapses. 

Even though adhesive hooks are not ideal, sometimes renters don’t have a choice in the matter as it is common for most landlords and property managers to disallow renters to put holes in the wall. If you fall under this category, the “two-hook” method still works; however, it’s important to get the right adhesive hook for the weight of your piece. Otherwise, you’ll defeat the purpose of using the hook when your artwork falls off the wall and possibly damages it. 

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RoundAbout

“Eyeballing” the Height Placement

Nothing is more frustrating than trying to “eyeball” the placement of artwork. Yes, it may look straight while you’re up close to the wall and hammering away, but once you step away, it’s almost guaranteed that it will be crooked or too close to the floor. 

Before you begin to hang your artwork, grab a measuring tape and measure 57 inches from the floor—that’s the ideal height for the center of the artwork to be. This height is at eye-level for most people, and it is the most commonly used measurement in art galleries and museums. Using a leveler will also ensure the piece does not slope one way or another. 

Be sure not to use the 57-inch rule as the measurement for where the hook should be; that must be calculated using the placement of the wire on the back of the frame. Using our inexpensive Picture Hanging Tool is an easy way to mark the place where to put the picture-hanging hook on your display wall. 

Inconsistent Arrangement

When hanging multiple pieces, or creating a gallery wall, the 57-inch rule is even more important to adhere to, because otherwise, the pieces won’t flow together properly. Hanging all of the pieces at eye level will create consistency. When hanging an arrangement of pieces in one location, you can use the “string and pushpin method,” where you measure 57 inches from the floor, marking each spot with a pushpin and running a string between them to ensure everything is lined up.

Lack of Planning for Gallery Walls

When creating a gallery wall, pre-planning where the frames will go saves you the headache and hassle of having to continuously rearrange the pieces on the wall—creating dozens of holes in the wall during the process A commonly used and quite effective method for pre-planning a gallery wall is to use craft or butcher paper. Lay the paper flat on the floor and arrange your frames in the order that looks appealing to you. Larger pieces placed toward the left can create a sense of harmony. 

Trace the frames out on the paper, including the placement of the hooks, and tape the butcher paper to the wall with painter’s tape. Hammer the nails for the hooks through the paper on the wall where indicated. Take the paper down (without damaging the outlines of the frames) and use the butcher paper as your guide. Voila! The artwork is exactly where you intended.